UPDATE: I bought some more 464 wax from Candle Science this time to try again. There was a huge difference! Click the link to see how it went: Golden Brands 464 Pour Temp Test-1
I’ve heard great things about Golden Brands 464 soy wax. It is supposed to give beautiful tops in container candles. Here is what the Golden Brands website says about their 464 and 444 blends:
“Golden Wax has two blended waxes that contain a soy-based additive and are both natural and kosher. This soy-based additive enables the soy to be poured at a hotter temperature reducing frosting and increasing FO load. These waxes blend well with paraffin, slack wax, and microcrystalline waxes.”
It says of the 464 specifically “Has a lower melt point which helps with the burn and gives better glass adhesion”
So, in testing this wax, I expect to see beautiful smooth tops when cooled, and very minimal or no “wet” spots around the jar (where the wax has pulled away from the jar in spots). No frosting, craters, etc….. I also expect an even better hot throw than the 100% soy wax I normally use.
Most of the reviews I’ve read have been extremely positive. Some of the reviews said they had problems with lumpy tops and sink holes until they tried pouring at 160-170 degrees, and then they came out perfectly.
The instructions for the GW 464 wax say to:
- Heat soy wax to 185 F (so fragrance oil fully dissolves)-
- Add fragrance oil and color
- Remove from heat and stir gently for 2 minutes
- Allow soy wax to cool to desired pour temperature (suggested temp is 130-140 degrees)
- Stir gently one last time and pour candle
I noticed when melting the 464 wax that it has a thicker, creamier appearance than the other waxes I’ve used.
First Test Candles
So let’s get right into the results of my testing. This first picture below shows the cracks and sink hole I got. This is only 2 of the test candles. For my first round of testing, I made 4 8oz candles with the Golden Brands 464 wax and Melon Fig Apricot fragrance oil (Candle Cocoon) and 2 drops of dye for each lb of wax (1 drop in each 8oz candle)
- One candle using Eco-14 wick poured at about 135 degrees .5oz (1/2oz)fragrance oil
- One candle using CD-16 wick poured at about 135 degrees .5oz (1/2oz)fragrance oil
- One candle using CD-16 wick poured at 170 degrees .25oz (1/4oz)fragrance oil
- One candle using CD-18 wick poured at 100 degrees. .25oz (1/4oz) fragrance oil
You can see the sink holes below, and that is what happened to all of the total of 9 candles I made with this wax. The only one that got smallest sink hole was the one I poured at 100 degrees. Other than that, the ones I poured at higher temperatures looked the nicest as far as smooth shiny appearance and no frosting or wet spots. The lower the temperature, the rougher looking the top was.
Oh the Bubbles!
The two pictures below are of the first 4 test candles as I was burning them. I had a horrible time with air bubbles in these! (you can see the bubbles all around the edge of the melted wax) I’ve never had a problem with my soy wax getting air bubbles, but this wax seems to be very susceptible to it. I think because it has a thicker consistency when it’s melted.
The bubbles caused the wicks to burn very inconsistently with popping and crackling and the candles, especially the ones with more fragrance oil in them, did not end up burning to the edge like I would expect with my normal CD 16 and 18 wicks. These wicks work great in these jars with other soy waxes I’ve tried and especially my normal 100% soy wax from American Soy Organics (formerly Enchanted Lites Soy wax)
The picture below is of the test candles that I used .5oz of fragrance oil in each candle. The candle on the left had a hard time staying lit after a couple burn sessions and the wicks on almost all 4 of them seemed to get really thick which was weird.
Here are the next 3 test candles I made. I used:
- Eco 14 wick in all of them
- .5oz Melon Fig Apricot in the green one, poured at 90 degrees
- .5oz PearBerry and no dye in one, poured at 130 degrees
- .5oz Pumpkin Pie and no dye in one, poured at 110 degrees
This time I made sure to stir and pour these Very, Very slowly to minimize air bubbles. They all still got sink holes, but they did not have near as many air bubbles and ended up burning a lot better, though there was still some crackling and popping mostly with the green candle which I used the Melon Fig Apricot oil again.
The other two candles I tried Pumpkin Pie in one, and PearBerry in the other with no dye in those two.
My theory is that the Melon Fig Apricot is a heavier fragrance oil so it may have a harder time burning, especially with this particular wax and the added dye.
The picture below is toward the end of the two candles on the right (middle candle and green candle). The one on the far left I started testing later than the other two so it is not finished burning yet. As you can see, the one in the middle is done (total burn time about 49 hours). It burned mostly to the edge, but still left more wax on the sides of the jar than my other soy wax candles do. The green candle actually burned longer than the middle one (about 55 hours) and it also surprised me that it actually melted more wax off the sides too. I thought since that one had more air bubbles, it might not burn as well as the other two, but I think it actually did better.
With my observation of this soy wax, if you can get it to work well for you, is that it probably needs a little hotter wick than some other soy waxes.
The candle below is a candle I had made using the same Melon, Fig, Apricot oil as the other green candles, and the same amount of dye. Notice there are no air bubbles and it is burning nicely. The difference? This candle was made using the Millenium Blend soy wax from American Soy Organics (previously Enchanted Lites). I just thought I would show this so you can see that it is definitely the GW(Golden Brands) 464 wax that is the problem and not the dye or fragrance oil.
One Last Test…..
And these are the last two candles I made using the Golden Brands 464 wax. Here’s what I used:
- .5oz Oatmeal Milk and Honey fragrance oil in each candle
- CD-16 wick in each candle
- No dye in either candle
- Poured one on the left at 140 degrees
- Poured candle on the right at 125 degrees
Both candles still got sink holes. I also stirred and poured these Very, very slowly and they both did much better without many bubbles, although they still have some. They seem to be burning pretty well and fairly cleanly too.
So What Do I Think???
Well, my experience with this soy wax has not been a good one. I’ve heard others rave about this wax, yet I’ve also heard of some others having issues with it. I followed advice and poured at higher temperatures, but it seems no matter what temperature I poured the wax into the jars at, they all got sink holes. Now that is a pretty easy fix if you just want to leave some wax in the pour pot so you can pour a little on to top them off and fix the holes, but I also had that horrible air bubble issue. Even though it was much better after I started stirring and pouring much slower, I still don’t like the fact that they still had some air bubbles which caused the candles to crack and pop a bit. And I don’t like the fact that I have to tip toe around trying to get this wax to work well when I have used other soy waxes that are much less complicated.
Now, I don’t know, maybe I got a bad batch, and I’ll probably try ordering some of this wax from Candlescience next time, but I’ve never gotten a “bad batch” of my regular soy wax which works pretty consistently for me.
On the positive side, if it weren’t for the sink hole and air bubbles, this wax cools to a beautiful, smooth, shiny appearance when poured at higher temps.
Have you tried or do you use Golden Brands 464 wax? I would love to hear your experience with it and any tips you might have! Just leave a comment below!