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UPDATE: I bought some more 464 wax from Candle Science this time to try again. There was a huge difference! Click the link to see how it went: Golden Brands 464 Pour Temp Test-1
I’ve heard great things about Golden Brands 464 soy wax. It is supposed to give beautiful tops in container candles. Here is what the Golden Brands website says about their 464 and 444 blends:
“Golden Wax has two blended waxes that contain a soy-based additive and are both natural and kosher. This soy-based additive enables the soy to be poured at a hotter temperature reducing frosting and increasing FO load. These waxes blend well with paraffin, slack wax, and microcrystalline waxes.”
It says of the 464 specifically “Has a lower melt point which helps with the burn and gives better glass adhesion”
So, in testing this wax, I expect to see beautiful smooth tops when cooled, and very minimal or no “wet” spots around the jar (where the wax has pulled away from the jar in spots). No frosting, craters, etc….. I also expect an even better hot throw than the 100% soy wax I normally use.
Most of the reviews I’ve read have been extremely positive. Some of the reviews said they had problems with lumpy tops and sink holes until they tried pouring at 160-170 degrees, and then they came out perfectly.
The instructions for the GW 464 wax say to:
- Heat soy wax to 185 F (so fragrance oil fully dissolves)-
- Add fragrance oil and color
- Remove from heat and stir gently for 2 minutes
- Allow soy wax to cool to desired pour temperature (suggested temp is 130-140 degrees)
- Stir gently one last time and pour candle
I noticed when melting the 464 wax that it has a thicker, creamier appearance than the other waxes I’ve used.
First Test Candles
So let’s get right into the results of my testing. This first picture below shows the cracks and sink hole I got. This is only 2 of the test candles. For my first round of testing, I made 4 8oz candles with the Golden Brands 464 wax and Melon Fig Apricot fragrance oil (Candle Cocoon) and 2 drops of dye for each lb of wax (1 drop in each 8oz candle)
- One candle using Eco-14 wick poured at about 135 degrees .5oz (1/2oz)fragrance oil
- One candle using CD-16 wick poured at about 135 degrees .5oz (1/2oz)fragrance oil
- One candle using CD-16 wick poured at 170 degrees .25oz (1/4oz)fragrance oil
- One candle using CD-18 wick poured at 100 degrees. .25oz (1/4oz) fragrance oil
You can see the sink holes below, and that is what happened to all of the total of 9 candles I made with this wax. The only one that got smallest sink hole was the one I poured at 100 degrees. Other than that, the ones I poured at higher temperatures looked the nicest as far as smooth shiny appearance and no frosting or wet spots. The lower the temperature, the rougher looking the top was.
Oh the Bubbles!
The two pictures below are of the first 4 test candles as I was burning them. I had a horrible time with air bubbles in these! (you can see the bubbles all around the edge of the melted wax) I’ve never had a problem with my soy wax getting air bubbles, but this wax seems to be very susceptible to it. I think because it has a thicker consistency when it’s melted.
The bubbles caused the wicks to burn very inconsistently with popping and crackling and the candles, especially the ones with more fragrance oil in them, did not end up burning to the edge like I would expect with my normal CD 16 and 18 wicks. These wicks work great in these jars with other soy waxes I’ve tried and especially my normal 100% soy wax from American Soy Organics (formerly Enchanted Lites Soy wax)
The picture below is of the test candles that I used .5oz of fragrance oil in each candle. The candle on the left had a hard time staying lit after a couple burn sessions and the wicks on almost all 4 of them seemed to get really thick which was weird.
More Testing!
Here are the next 3 test candles I made. I used:
- Eco 14 wick in all of them
- .5oz Melon Fig Apricot in the green one, poured at 90 degrees
- .5oz PearBerry and no dye in one, poured at 130 degrees
- .5oz Pumpkin Pie and no dye in one, poured at 110 degrees
This time I made sure to stir and pour these Very, Very slowly to minimize air bubbles. They all still got sink holes, but they did not have near as many air bubbles and ended up burning a lot better, though there was still some crackling and popping mostly with the green candle which I used the Melon Fig Apricot oil again.
The other two candles I tried Pumpkin Pie in one, and PearBerry in the other with no dye in those two.
My theory is that the Melon Fig Apricot is a heavier fragrance oil so it may have a harder time burning, especially with this particular wax and the added dye.
The picture below is toward the end of the two candles on the right (middle candle and green candle). The one on the far left I started testing later than the other two so it is not finished burning yet. As you can see, the one in the middle is done (total burn time about 49 hours). It burned mostly to the edge, but still left more wax on the sides of the jar than my other soy wax candles do. The green candle actually burned longer than the middle one (about 55 hours) and it also surprised me that it actually melted more wax off the sides too. I thought since that one had more air bubbles, it might not burn as well as the other two, but I think it actually did better.
With my observation of this soy wax, if you can get it to work well for you, is that it probably needs a little hotter wick than some other soy waxes.
The candle below is a candle I had made using the same Melon, Fig, Apricot oil as the other green candles, and the same amount of dye. Notice there are no air bubbles and it is burning nicely. The difference? This candle was made using the Millenium Blend soy wax from American Soy Organics (previously Enchanted Lites). I just thought I would show this so you can see that it is definitely the GW(Golden Brands) 464 wax that is the problem and not the dye or fragrance oil.
One Last Test…..
And these are the last two candles I made using the Golden Brands 464 wax. Here’s what I used:
- .5oz Oatmeal Milk and Honey fragrance oil in each candle
- CD-16 wick in each candle
- No dye in either candle
- Poured one on the left at 140 degrees
- Poured candle on the right at 125 degrees
Both candles still got sink holes. I also stirred and poured these Very, very slowly and they both did much better without many bubbles, although they still have some. They seem to be burning pretty well and fairly cleanly too.
So What Do I Think???
Well, my experience with this soy wax has not been a good one. I’ve heard others rave about this wax, yet I’ve also heard of some others having issues with it. I followed advice and poured at higher temperatures, but it seems no matter what temperature I poured the wax into the jars at, they all got sink holes. Now that is a pretty easy fix if you just want to leave some wax in the pour pot so you can pour a little on to top them off and fix the holes, but I also had that horrible air bubble issue. Even though it was much better after I started stirring and pouring much slower, I still don’t like the fact that they still had some air bubbles which caused the candles to crack and pop a bit. And I don’t like the fact that I have to tip toe around trying to get this wax to work well when I have used other soy waxes that are much less complicated.
Now, I don’t know, maybe I got a bad batch, and I’ll probably try ordering some of this wax from Candlescience next time, but I’ve never gotten a “bad batch” of my regular soy wax which works pretty consistently for me.
On the positive side, if it weren’t for the sink hole and air bubbles, this wax cools to a beautiful, smooth, shiny appearance when poured at higher temps.
Have you tried or do you use Golden Brands 464 wax? I would love to hear your experience with it and any tips you might have! Just leave a comment below!
I have been using GW464 for over a year now and I have never had any problems with it. I do use the double boiler method with this wax as that is all that I have at the moment. But I have not had any complaints from anyone one on how it throws or melts. All my melting I have done with my candles have been clean and even. I suppose it’s just a trail and error type of thing not sure. As for the air bubbles I found that if you stir to fast or pour to fast you will get them in this wax. But I havent had any problems. I love the scent throw that I get and I can use 12% in this wax of FO.
Thanks for the input! I’m curious, where do you buy your wax from? I admit I am stumped as to why this wax isn’t working for me, when I know that others like you love it and it makes me wonder if buying from a different company might be better. I wonder if the age of the wax has anything to do with it….maybe the place I bought it from doesn’t sell it very often, so it’s left sitting for a long time. Maybe it got moisture in it somehow? Just some things that are going through my mind lol
So! I guess I’m about the most uneducated person on here. I have assumed that the 464 is 100% soy wax! Oh my gosh! I’ve been advertising that! I’ve had issues with it in the short period that I’ve been making candles and I mean short and that is the only one I’ve used. But, just recently started pouring at a very low temp when it is really starting to set and they are coming out great! I’ve redone sooo many candles it’s pathetic. I purchased my first from ebay, then Nature’s Garden but this last one, because I had a big order and the shipping was faster, I went with VA Candle Supply. Theirs was made 08/20/2016 and is soooo soft it’s scary. But I’m having great results. But I’m going to try your wax Melissa. The true 100% soy. Oh gosh! Shipping is actually $20.00 cheaper from them.
Are you still melting it to 185 deg? I’m doing that, adding essential oils and dye. I let it cool to 135 as the recommended suggestion and pour. The wick becomes displaced and the top gets sink holes. The scent is great though, and so is the colour.
What wick are you using? I just made my first batch of candles with gw 464 using the eco 12 wick in an 8oz tin. The cooks throw id’s great, but the hot throw not so much.
Filmore container in Lancaster PA has the best pricing for soy wax that I have found. Heat to 185 let cool to 180 and add fragrance. I do not use due or color. I stir for 2 min straight after pouring fragrance. Also stir slowly every 10 min or so until temp reaches between 115-125. I find that it can be poured at even lower temps. I’ve also found that a lot of the times sinkholes and bubbles are caused by the candle cooling to quickly so I let them cool inside of the box or container that they came in. room about 70 to 75° You do not want to breeze or one side of your candle cooling more quickly than the other side so it’s best to keep them and closed in something if you can or at least at the same temperature If the wax cools too quickly they may be what is causing some issues. If the tops are not perfectly smooth I use a heat gun and remelt the top just enough to fill holes smooth and then tap lightly to get bubbles out. . I’m just a beginner a lot of trial and error though.
I agree with a lot of what Jamie says above. Room temp is huge…especially as the night wares on (overnight). I’m going to try your method of having them cool in the cardboard box. Natures Garden has an EXCELLENT “CLASS” on making soy candles where you can actually print off the class notes in a PDF. One thing that I think was an eye-opener for me was that each fragrance oil has a different FLASHPOINTS. This is huge for getting the right temp to ADD your fragrance at so you get a good ‘hot throw’. It was VERY informative reading…check it out.
Like you, I had so many problems with this wax. It adhered well and the hot and cold throw is amazing with this wax, but the bubbles and the caving crater holes were killing me! I had tried everything and finally thought…well, since it does better the hotter you pour it – I literally got it to 185 degrees, added my scent and color and poured it into my containers at 175 degrees… to my surprise there was no caving and no bubbles. I had to wait until around 135 degrees to pour into my clam shells. Hopefully this helps. I had ordered 50 lbs and was ready to scream lol…
Are you heating your containers up? That is very important to keep the candle from having the sinkhole. Put them in the oven at the lowest temp, wick and all, and you will not have this issue after pouring up the candle. It should always be poured at the 135 degrees. As long as the jar is warm, you will have beautiful candles.
I’m using gw464 in 8oz tins and 8oz jars. Cold throw is great, but got throw not so much. What wick are you using, and does the wick make a big difference?
I also heat up my oven t 170…the lowest setting. Once oven is at this temp I put my 16 oz jars on a cookie sheet and heat for 10-15 mins.
Good advice.
I really do feel that this soy is extremely sensitive to temperature once poured and I think the advice of wrapping in a kitchen towel or putting in a cardboard box is great for ‘insulation’ while cooling. I think this is where I am missing the boat. I mastered the POUR TEMP (now that I understand all fragrances have different FLASHPOINTs…and knowing WHEN to ADD is key based on this). Stirring SLOWLY for a FULL 2 mins after you pour is key as well). But just as important is the temperature ‘environment’ of the cooling candle is VERY important and making sure it’s consistent.
What would be wonderful is if people would give ALL of the information to what they use instead of I get great scent throw and then NOT BOTHER stating what wick you use. Im using 8 12 and 16 oz round mason jars and cold the candles are awesome and lit ive got NO THROW!!!!! what wick should I use?
Hi I use ecosoya cb 135 in 10 oz status jar I use either rrd40 or htp 126 wicks I use those same wick for my glass glow palm wax container candles, I don’t worry about the top i will use a heat gun to smooth the top if there is a problem and also pour at a very low temperature i hope that helps.
What are the best scents for this wax and what company do you use? Thank you
I’ve been using the 464 Wax myself and I’m having those same problems I need a soy wax that doesn’t do all that have bubble, wet spots, sink holes or crack. Do you know of another soy wax that would work better? I’m wanting to sell my homemade candles but refuse to give my customers candles like that. Please help me?
Veronica, I have tried the GW 415 wax and my candles turned out great. Also, the wax I normally use American Soy Organics 100% container wax (formerly Enchanted Lites 100% Soy Container) is really good with the exception of having a little bit more of an issue with frosting, but pouring at the right temp and making sure the room it’s cooling in isn’t too cold, you can usually have little to no frosting on them.
Also, where did you buy your 464 wax from?
I recently started my own wax melt business as well and had been buying my 100% soy wax at Hobby Lobby. Not economical but always worked great. Just found a candle supply near my house and at their suggestion, bought 10 lbs of 464 at a great price. Today was my first time using it – so far I hate it. Once dried, all my wax melts cracked – some really deep ones too. Didn’t dry smooth either. Kind of had an elephant skin look in some places. 😞
I’ve had great success with Natures Wax C3 as far as the looks of my candles. The only downside to C3 is the max load is 6%. I decided to go try 464 because of the higher load possible. I’m on this site trying to find answers on how to get 464 to not come out lumpy and with sink holes but it seems its a crap shoot at best. So far I hate this wax. I’m going to go back to C3 and try a little higher quality oils.
Now I’m having the same trouble as you are and that was following GW 464 direction. The second set I made I poured between 95 and 100 with little or no frosting and no sink holes,but the burn still not as good as I wanted,but all that could be is changing out a wick. I think I’m going to stick with EL100%,cause no matter what fragrance I use I have no trouble. I have seen people use GW464 and have no troubles and their candles burns beautiful with some powerful fragrance throw. I bought my GW 464 from Rustic Essential.
Yeah, I’ve always liked the EL 100% and haven’t had too much trouble with it being finicky lol Thanks for your input! It’s interesting to hear how other’s are doing with this wax too, and very informative!
Hi, I have been using cb 135 ran out was thinking about trying gb 464 but after hearing all the problems I will stay with what works. I get great results.
I haven’t tried that wax yet, but it will be on my list. I do want to say that I contacted Golden Brands about the wax and they got back to me right way saying I really need to contact the supplier that I bought it from first, which makes sense. I have sent an email to North Star candle supply where I bought the wax letting them know about the issues I had, so it could possibly be that maybe it was a bad batch. We’ll see what they say. From what Golden Brands said, North Star would just need to send a sample to them to do some testing on to see if there’s a problem with the wax.
Melissa the 464 is the wax that I had so much trouble with-NO scent throw, and it DID leave sink holes and wet spots no matter what I tried..I had to mix this wax with other wax just to finish using it up-NOT a good wax. You are SO right about the review you posted using this wax..
I’ve got a 10lb bag to get through. What did you mix yours with and at what ratio to get the desired results?
I’ve had issues with bubbles and sink holes with GB 464 as well but I’m finding that if I heat the wax to 175 degrees and ad my dye and fragrance and let it cool to 150 degrees before pouring slowly, it tends to be less. I had problems with frosting as well but I figured out that my room was too cold so I wrap them in towels now and it seems to have fixed the problem. I use 8 oz. Jelly Jars and it always melts all of the wax around the container. It took me a few tries to get the hang of it but once you figure it out, it does work quite well.
Hello are you still available to chat
Hi There,
Greeting from Oz 🙂
I did some testing over the weekend with GB 464 and got the rough tops which were disappointing. I was using these small honeypot jars (http://www.aussiecandlesupplies.com.au/clear-honey-142gm-p-21.html). I did 3 tests and poured at diff temps:
1. 70 degrees Celsius
2. 65 degrees Celsius
3. 55 degrees Celsius
(We use Celsius in Australia so you’ll need to convert to Fahrenheit)
I also heated them all up to 80 Celsius once the wax was melted and put in the fragrance oil then. I used Choc Mint (not my favourite but I had a lot of it so it was good for testing). I was roughly using 6-7% of fragrance for the weight in wax (120 grams).
Results? ALL got rough tops and a shiny sheen to it too. Yuk.
I thought to try and different fragrance. So this time I used Lavender fragrance oil and again based it on 6-7% of weight.
I melted the wax and heated it up to just under 80 and added the fragrance. Mixed it a little bit and waited for it to cool until it hit 65. I poured it at that temperature.
Results? THE perfect container candle! Not a blemish, it was smooth! Just gorgeous!
So what I’m thinking is, the quality of Fragrance Oil also plays a part with this wax.
Try using a different fragrance oil and try again!
Good luck!
That is great that it worked out for you, I use cb 135 and I guess like all wax you have to test ,test. But sometimes, it just don’t work for everyone the difference could me the climate, temp in the building, weight of the fragrance,temp of the wax etc,
Keep up the good work.
Hi just reading all your reviews on 464 wax. I’m new to all this and I was a it scared to use it after all the problems people are having with it. I followed the advise from fellow oz reviewer and heated to just under 80, added fragrance, stirred, then poured at 65 and my candles turned out really really nice. Smooth creamy tops and great scent throw so happy with out come
I have ONLY had success pouring at higher temps….135 – 140 F
I’ve been using GB464 with great results. I’ve used different dye, FO and jars, and they come out really smooth and creamy looking. I buy my wax from Candlescience. I warm my mason jars in an oven at 200 degrees for only 5 to 10 minutes and remove them and place on the counter to cool while preparing the wax. I melt the wax in a Presto Multi-Cooker Steamer at 170 – 175 degrees. Then remove and pour into a large capacity glass measuring cup, and immediately add my dye. I gently stir and then let the wax sit before adding the FO. Adding the FO depends on the flashpoint of the oil, if the FO is 200 degrees or above, I’ll add the oil shortly after the dye dissolves. If the flashpoint is lower, I let the wax sit until it’s safe to add. I gently stir the oil about 15 hand strokes clockwise and then counter-clockwise with a metal whisk. Then the wax sits until about 130 – 135 degrees, and I pour into the warmed mason jars. Out of the 60+ jars I’ve made in the last couple of weeks, I have only 2 from the same batch that had sink holes. Hope this helps
That is gr8!
Hey Lynn I see this post is old. Are you still available to chat
Sounds exactly how I prepare mine ; cold scent throw is amazing and top finish is smooth I also purchase this wax from candle science I was wondering about the hot scent throw I smell mine when first lit but after about an hour I don’t smell it much anymore my size jars are 4oz and I use the eco 10 wic syize thought about trying different wic size
i also use candlesecience gb 464 wax and have had great results with my candles ; heating to 170 adding dye if using any at 170 i let wax cool to 165-160 and add fragrance oil; unless the flashpoint is lower ; i stir about 3-five minutes to blend fo to wax/ and pour at 120-115 no sink holes; no frost; no cracks/ i use the 8oz tin cans and the eco 14 wicks also from candlescience and i let them cure about 1-5 days before testing; cold and hot throw is awesome i use 1.75 fo to a pound of this wax never had problem some fo require more or less; i just stick with 1.75 hope this helps someone they say this wax can take up to 12% fragrance load which is 2oz per pound
Agree Tonya! This has been MY major learnings as well…preheating jars for 464 is a must but understanding FLASHPOINT! My understanding is if a flashpoint is OVER 200, add frag at 185…if a flashpoint is under 185 but OVER 130, add the Fragrance at the flashpoint of that fragrance. If the flashpoint is under 135 add at its flashpoint. Its been a huge learning curve. But I have an index card as my cheatsheet and use it every time i go to add fragrance. I also have a cheatsheet of each fragrance oils Flashpoints. Key!
I am just starting my candle business. I ordered GB464 and have had many problems with it. I do have air bubbles, even if I stir very slowly and carefully. I also have sink holes in most of my candles. I started pouring at 130-140, like the directions suggested and also pouring at 170 as you mentioned in your review. I really did not see a big change in the tops. Sometimes the 170 temp was better, but not all the time.I have not seen a difference using cold jars or warmed jars. I use a heating tool to smooth out the tops and then they look nice. I did not have the burning problems you had. My candles burned to the edge without any problems.
This is changing the subject from holes and bubbles, but I made chunk candles last week. When I took my finished candles into a room without air conditioning (our air is not working upstairs) to decorated the jars, the chunks started to melt and run a little. So, now I am wondering if GB 464 will hold up to be shipped to my customers. Did you ever have a problem with shipping in hot climates using Enchanted Lites?
I need to order more wax, so please advice me what to do. I have watched your video so many times and you make it look and sound so easy. Thank you for the videos.
I’ve used GB464 for a few years and have had incredible luck with hot and cold throw. However, the heavier the FO, the larger the sink holes and I’ve yet to find a way to combat that. I did try Ecosoy but it has a lousy throw and I’ve blended the two (when in a bind) which really did make a difference one way or the other. I’m out of GB464 and was going to reorder but all of the recent reviews on Candlescience’s site and this one lead me to believe that perhaps there’s been a change in formula (due to the lack of hot/cold throw), or there’s a bad batch out there. Wondering if the EL you all mention has a strong throw? I love to spoil my customers but also want to stay true to soy. Any advice is greatly appreciated!!!
someone tell me some of these words you are using!!!!! I am about to buy my first soy flakes/make my first candle (ever) and don’t understand some of the terms: FO / hot throw …. I’m nervous with all the variables
Hi Kris! FO just means Fragrance Oil, EO is Essential Oil. Hot throw is the fragrance that you can smell when the candle is burning (like the candle is “throwing” the fragrance around so you can smell it 🙂 Cold throw would be the fragrance you can smell when the candle is not burning. 🙂
Hi There, I’m new to candle making and I am in Australia and have been testing and using the GW 464 with a series of different fragrances. What is the best way to get accurate measurments of fragrances? Do you go by the weight OR by the measurement on a jug or something?
I’m sad to say I had a reaction with candle tins and the coconut lime corroding or rusting the edges of the tins. I’ve read and FO with vanilla in them seem to be the culprit, however some tins are double coated in the inside which helps combat this. Unfortunately my tins did not have the extra coating.
I am finding the fragrance when lit with the GW 464 is good, but I am getting some frosting and tunneling effect. I am using a HTP 126 wick in a large 300g jar which was recommended by the supplier. Any tips on combating this?
I have been using a hair dryer to help smooth the tops of the candles which helps. Does anyone use the infrared thermometer vs the regular style? Thinking I may get one to improve accuracy.
I find the GW 464 melts exactly at 75 degrees Celsius and then I take this and add to a plastic measuring jug, add 10% fragrance and stir in figure of 8’s both direction for about one minute, and then pour. So far, so good apart from a few tunneling and the tins corroding!
Would love to know tips and advice, I am brand new and nervous about quality issues as a newbie.
I have experimented, tested every possible option with GW415 soy wax and I for the life of me can not get it right! Can anyone save me the pain and tell me what temp they heat it to, and do you add the fragrance then pour straight away, or do you let it cool. Instructions suggest heating to 85 celcius ( im in Aus) then let it cool to 32-38celcius. It starts to set in the pot waiting this long!
Ive tried both and having a s#*t of a frustrating time lol
Hey! i would love some advise.
I have recently started making candles with Soy GW 464, and i am currently testing my wicks.I have a diameter of 3 inches, so Eco 14 looks like the best wick for the diameter. I am having trouble with some bubbles, and the scent trow. the scent trows a little, but not strong. Could it be the temperatures i heat, pour, and add the fragrance in? The candels come out looking amazing though, i Heat to 185 then cool to around 170 and add fragrance, then i pour at 165. The only problem is the scents and the little bit of bubbles.
Thank you, Chris
I use the double boiler method, no bubbles. Heat to 185, add scents and stir. Let it cool to 135 (during this time my jars are in the oven on the lowest temp to keep the glass warm). Pull jars out when it gets to around 138 degrees and pour at 135 into the warm jars. No bubbles, smooth top, great scent. 464 needs 1.5 oz to 2 oz of fragrance per pound.
I use the double boiler method as well…a presto pot to be exact. Do everything Wendy says and I never ever get bubbles. I do get wet spots and hardly ever smooth tops BUT I think my candles are cooling too fast so I’m going to try keeping the jars in the oven until I’m almost ready to pour and will keep them in a cardboard box (but 4″ apart)….I agree too that FLASHPOINT of your FO’s is KEY for hot throw. I also agree to let cure 3-5 days before testing
The slower and cooler the wax the bigger the wick…..paper core!
Anyone else have luck with LX wicks with the 464? I’ve found that the scent throw is awesome with the LX-22 in a 6 oz tin, BUT it tends to mushroom and sometimes the flame gets low and looks like it’s gonna drown out. Could this be due to too much fragrance? The LX-24 also works well in these tins, but the melt pool is a little too deep for my liking. I’ve tried the recommended Eco 10 and Eco 12, but I think they’re too strong and burn off too much scent to even get a hot throw. Thanks! email me at ninajablonski@gmail.com please with responses 🙂
We use GW 464 here at Molly Rue. It makes beautiful candles! http://www.mollyrue.com/
Hi. I have just started candlemaking with tealights. I am using GW464 from Candlescience. Eco wicks. I have amazing cold throw and very little hot throw. I am heating 13oz of wax to 185 then add 1oz fragrance and the dye. I cool to 135 and pour. I heat and pour in a warm 70-75 degree room. They look gorgeous. What can I do to increase hot throw? Thank you!
hi i just started using the 464 soy wax and noticed that after i burn my candles and blow them out and relite them they are lumpy and the wax only burns in the middle can some please tell me what to do im new at making candles
Your wick may be too small. Also, it’s better to snuff out your candles, rather than blowing them out.
Good luck!
The first time you burn a candle sets the stage for the life of the candle. The size of the wax pool on the initial burn is pretty much the size of the opening from there on out. So if you only burn the candle for an hour or so, and have a really small wax pool, the dry hard wax around the outside edge will almost never burn. Let the candle burn long enough to get the entire top liquid wax. This takes about an hour per inch in diameter of the vessel. So if your candle is 3″ wide, let it burn for at least 3 hours. If it doesn’t melt all the way to the edge don’t panic, but get as close as you can. Sometimes the last 1/4″ will burn as the candle goes down. It won’t burn evenly across the top, but it will burn completely.
After the first burn, try to let the candle burn for long stretches as often as you can to keep that really wide opening and prevent tunneling later on.
Wondering when you did your update? Have had some interesting boxes of wax 🙂
I just started using it. It worked beautifully in the 8 oz tins I used. Nice glossy finish, no imperfections at all and a great cold and hot throw. I switched over to mason jars and the sinkholes I got in every single candle were at least an inch deep and the tops were rough and ugly especially after using a heat gun to fix the holes. But it did keep the good hot and cold throw.
I have only ever used 464 it’s all I know and although this is a tricky wax I mastered it and would never switch it.
I melt to 180 remove from heat add dye and stir the. I allow wax to cool to about 119-115 and FO stir 2 mins and out immediately! After much trial and error this is the method that works for me! Called the Low-Temp Method 👍🏼
My tests have come out the same way every time with the 464! He to 185 and add fragrance oil immediately and stir for two full minutes. Pour at 150°. Smooth tops every single time. You can pour hotter with the 464. Now if only I could solve my adherence to the jar issue/wet spots. Working on that now.
I also have massive problems with wet spots. If it doesnt happen the first night….the second etc. It doesn’t adhere well to the jar. Using same wax ….464.
I also have massive problems with wet spots. If it doesnt happen the first night….the second etc. It doesn’t adhere well to the jar. Using same wax ….464.
We find that gently heating the jars in the oven before pouring reduces the wet spots. We only heat the jars enough so they are warm to the touch not hot enough to burn.
Hope this helps.
We find that gently heating the jars in the oven before pouring reduces the wet spots. We only heat the jars enough so they are warm to the touch not hot enough to burn.
Hope this helps.